Pitons and patience

I’m on the ground and experiencing a little bit of post-wall blues.  I am keen to be up on a long route, a big wall, a challenging climb.  I feel grounded by responsibility.  Patience is the challenge today.

I have pitons now, as you can see in the photos below.  These are for our trip up north, in case we need them.  We hope to clean aid, if any aiding is required to work a pitch, but a pitch rated A3 means I would like to have some just in case.

This morning I biked over to get some angles sawed.  Werner asked me what I wanted them for, and my reply of the West Buttress, did not invoke enthusiasm.  He joked asking why, and then told me I should look at the Pacific Ocean Wall, after checking that I had climbed the Shield.  The sell was not 100% because he told me that he was scared on a pitch of fixed heads, “timebombs”.  This invoked memories of me threading a cord from my waterbottle through a fixed Rurp last year and then standing on it, after moving off some “bomber” fixed tat.  I get scared, and this was a moment: the deception of telling myself it is fine, just like a bolt, worked in that I continued, but I was aware of reality for better or worse.

So the organizing and packing continues.  Summer has arrived in the Valley, and that means swimming in the river, hiking people down the trail on a litter, and doing some granite rock climbing.  Emily is back in Montana, but Mad is around climbing free and strong.  We are set to meet up in Montana in a few weeks.  So for now it’s time to enjoy and train in sunny California.

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About Lorna K Illingworth

Born and raised in Portland, Oregon I grew up swimming in the city, exploring the forest around my home, and skiing up at Mt Hood. My British parents introduced me to fell walking on our annual trips to the Lake District to see family in the north of England, and instilled a love for travelling to new areas. I started rock climbing at Middlebury College, and took a semester off to go climbing and skiing in Canmore, Alberta, before traveling to Nepal for study. Being in the mountains drew me to climbing, and now I am keen to be hundreds or thousands of feet up on a wall. Since finishing college I have climbed in the States and abroad. Recently I have lived seasonally in Yosemite Valley, working on YOSAR.
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